12.28.2007

Above the Tuscan Sunset

I never really thought that I could fall in love with Italy.  I never acquired a taste for citrusy hues, and I am not a giant proponent of several consecutive sunny days.  I like when the sky is gutsy enough to rain on me and when life can somewhat be viewed in black and white. I think that's why I'm really enjoying Germany and Austria during the winter season even though it's bitterly cold outside.  I consider myself a realist, and a sunny, tangy-colored paradise doesn't seem feasible in reality.  

I don't think that I could have been more surprised by my reaction to the Italian countryside, however.  Aside from constantly being reminded of The Talented Mr. Ripley (and thus, the delicious Matt Damon), I was searching for the winding street where I could one day keep my summer house near the lake so I will have access to the harbor on days ideal for sailing.  Even though the shrubbery had, for the most part, turned a crispy shade of brown and many of the green trees and plants seemed quite out of place although they are engineered never to be out of season, I found a quite peace in the country famed to be home to the worst drivers in the world. 

The food is fabulous; fresh, authentic Italian sandwiches available for purchase in petrol stations/grills, divine espresso and espresso cousins on every corner, and gelaterias occasionally set in a local strip mall for a tasty indulgence, could anyone ask for more?  I submit they cannot.  

Oh, and lets not forget the scenery.  Mountains, lakes, architecture all with a classic theme featuring summery colors so rich that each city street warms you with just one glance.  If I didn't know any better, I'd say I was in heaven.



12.27.2007

Girly Things à la a Semi-Non-girly Girl


Yesterday was an amazing day.  Not only did I get to galavant around Austria, but we had the opportunity to parade around none other than the stunningly gorgeous city of Innsbruck, infamous for its Swarovski Crystal factory.  On our way to Innsbruck, we took the autobahn, and I actually brought my camera on this adventure, so I had to take a picture.  Usually I hate being a tourist, but since I'm quite obviously not German and anyone who attempts to speak to me can clearly see this fact to be true, I have no qualms with pulling my camera out every 45 seconds.

Not the greatest view of the autobahn, but trust me, we were trucking along.  A car careened past us at what seemed like a rate that could compete with the ground-speed record about two seconds after I took this picture.  Our van shifted about a foot to the right and I held my breath for about two miles.  I didn't quite know what that was going to accomplish, but it seemed like an appropriate thing to do.


This is the view from the parking lot out side of the Swarovski museum.  Between the mountainous terrain and the shine of the crystals, I was in heaven.


And of course, I made a purchase.  It's shiny; I'm happy.  Life is good.  :)

After we left the museum, we drove around downtown Innsbruck to look at architecture and landscape.  It was so magnificent.  My words could never do it justice.




I'll have a few more pictures on my flickr if you want to live vicariously though 540x720 pixel arrangements on a screen.  The link is
http://www.flickr.com/photos/thegreenspeakeasy

Today we went shopping in München, where I found a shirt to wear to a New Years party we're attending on Saturday.  I think, before you look at German fashion, that it is important to see Canadian fashion.  Canadians have no idea how to dress themselves in any situation.  Compared to Canadian fashion, German fashion is a bit of alright.  It takes more diligent hunting and pecking through t-racks and rounders to find the pieces that are "20 euro cute" or even more expensive than that if you're really in need of outer wear, but it's comparatively doable.  I found a few stores aside from the American influenced chains that were stylish, but it was a challenge.   Piece of advice: don't rely on Eastern Europe to provide adorable european fashions that you'll be in love with.  Go to France.  

12.25.2007

Schwarzeneggerland/Deutschland

Christmas felt like any other day.  In hindsight, it doesn’t even feel like December despite the wintery landscape.  I don’t know how much more Decemberesque it could be outside, but I’m still not believing it.  I should probably get my head examined or something... seriously, it couldn’t be any more blatant that Christmas time has just passed.  Oh well, I’m not religious, so I won’t linger on my disbelief any longer.


Since my days have been teeming with excitement and adventure, it’s really no wonder I feel this way, though.  Yesterday we drove around Germany and Austria.  The sights were so lovely I wanted to jump out of the car, find a native, learn to speak Deutsch, send for my belongings, and apply for citizenship.  I’ve never seen anything so beautiful in all of my life.    


Our first stop was Neuschwanstein Castle.  As we approached, I could see it nestled on the mountainside among the snowy treetops, and it took the breath right out of my body.  My mind could no longer tell my diaphragm to contract to inhale the thinning air; it could only register the beauty before me.  


We’ll have to go back since the castle was closed, but here is the view from the winding roadways leading up the mountainside:

Hohenschwangau
Neuschwanstein

After our castle-viewing excursion, we set out for the Austrian countryside. See for yourself:
At this point, I doubt that I need to mention I'm in love.

Christmas Morning

I’m not particularly in the Christmas spirit this morning, in fact, I’m more like a less enthusiastic Cindy Loo-Who, losing the meaning of this crass holiday altogether.  I wish I were as excited as my 12 year-old cousin about the commercialism and loot, but alas, I am not.  The view from my window this morning was absolutely lovely, however, and I thought I’d share.


Bavaria from my window on Christmas morning:


You're allowed to hate me now.  


Merry Christmas

12.24.2007

The European people love me. The European transport system, not so much.

These past few days have been extremely eventful.  I feel like I’ve been here for ages although it’s only been a couple of days.  Here’s a quick rundown of my adventures so far:


20 Dec.:  I packed all of my belongings and Mel and I took the NJ Transit to Newark Int’l.  We had some pretty amazing egg rolls at Chili’s, a couple of enormous Chambord margaritas, and we said our “so-longs.”  I met a sweet guy from West-Point who was on my flight to Chicago, and he asked if he could sit by me on the plane.  We had a nice time during the flight and he walked me to my gate to catch my flight to London.  


My flight into London was alright.  I had a great seat next to some foreign guy with appropriately european fashion sense.  He reminded me of Brandon Klementzos if he were German and had a higher pitched voice and a mild goofy Swedish/German/Italian accent.  He didn’t say much, so I’ve elected his culture to be the melting pot of Europe.  I slept for about two hours on the seven hour flight and watched the last four hours slip by minute by minute.  


21 Dec.:  I arrived in London around noon and bought a Vanilla Latte in the airport.  Customs was a breeze and I began my three day luggage-hauling extravaganza.  I met a really sweet grad student from Arizona who has an apartment about an hour north of London.  He helped me figure out where to go to buy a cell phone and catch a train to Paris.  We parted in Euston and I made my way to Kings Cross alone on the subway sitting beside two Romanian girls who couldn’t tell that their jeans were six sizes too small.  I bought my phone (which is not really working at he moment (apparently I’m still horrible at this thing called life while abroad - it’s not just an America thing)) and headed back to Kings Cross to find the Chunnel and wait for the next train.  


After about two hours of sleep on the train, we arrived in Paris Nord where it was bitterly cold and absurdly busy for 21:00.  I shuffled, shivering over to the ticket line in hopes of catching the night train to Munich, but all tickets were gone and my reservation had been given away.  I decided to go to the Airport to see if I could catch a flight, so I jumped on the subway and rode to Charles de Gaulle.  It was 0:00 and the airport was barren so I decided to just get a hotel room near the airport since the shuttles were free and it was close - in hopes of catching a plane in the morning.  I solicited a shuttle driver for room rates at various hotels around the area, and he told me that the next shuttle to arrive would take me to a hotel that only cost about 30 euros.  I figured I’d pay about three times that much if I grabbed a taxi and took it to and from a 20 euro hostel in the area, so I said that would be fine.  He barely spoke English, and my French has been slowly decaying since I haven’t had much time to practice, but the driver wanted to talk to me anyway so he gave me his phone number and told me that he’d be off around 1:30 am.  


I arrived at the hotel, got my room, and realized that I could see my breath.  I was too afraid that I’d either sleep through my alarm or die of hypothermia in my sleep, so I stayed awake re-packing my suitcase until 5:00 when I went down to the shuttle stop.  


22 Dec.:  I went to the airport and found that all tickets were about 500 euros, threw-up in my mouth, and decided to take a train even if it took the rest of my life to get to München.  There were no trains to anywhere near where I needed to be for the next three days, but I finally decided to jump on a train that took me to Bruxelles and then to Köln.  I tried to get ahold of Matt and Pat, but I was having horrible luck with their phone numbers and finally reached them after they had left for the train station.  I regretfully left a message and went to find a heat kiosk.  I froze to death in the train station waiting for the 10:25 to Bruxelles, slept on the train, and arrived at the station 10 minutes after my Köln connection had left.  


At this point, I needed coffee and a pick-me-up.  I decided that decadent coffee would serve both purposes and would warm me up a little, so I went to Sam’s Cafe in the Bruxelles train station and had a Belgian Cappuccino with double cream.  It was amazing and made my troubles and back pain melt away for about five minutes which was a refreshing break.  I waited for the next train to Köln for about two hours and finally found a fold-down seat on the extremely over-crowded train.  The conductor scolded me for missing my train and then apologized that I was lodged in the luggage compartment.  Then he ran into a slow-moving door, so I decided to accept his apology after giggling a little.  


I arrived in Köln and hopped on a train to München.  I didn’t realize how much French I understand until I realized how little (read: not a word) German I understand.  I had a hard time finding a seat since I didn’t have a reservation, but a couple of darling German women in my car took my hand and lead me to a seat since I had no idea what they were saying.  I thanked them and fell asleep next to the window.  


I woke in a panic realizing that I couldn’t tell when the lady on the intercom was saying the city names and also that my watch had been re-set so many times that I had, after one re-setting, forgotten to press the winding knob back in, leaving me in the dark about where I was and when I was there other than the fact that I was on a train and it was blatantly nighttime.  I heard someone say Nurnberg on the intercom and knew that I had about an hour and a half before I would arrive in München, so gave in to my sleepy eyes once again.


23 Dec.:  In the München train station, I was hesitant about calling Matt and Pat since it was about 12:30 in the morning,so I decided to wait in the station until morning.  I went into a coffee shop and ordered an espresso.  This random Russian guy came and paid for it and brought his old weird Russian friends over to talk to me although I know no Russian and they knew about four words in English (and by English, I mean that they knew Deutsch and some English words happen to sound similar to their Deutsch pronunciations).  There was a guy that I could tell was looking out for me in the corner, so I slipped away from the creepy Russian guys and asked if he knew any English.  Thankfully, he did and he helped my figure out which numbers I needed to omit from the numbers I was dialing since I was in Germany and they were Germany numbers (I had no clue what the operator was saying other than “area code not found” and realized that I’m not civilized enough to use a European phone without assistance.)  


He and I went back to the coffee shop, careful to avoid the Russian guys, and some 20 somethings from München came over and started talking to me.  I talked to the one (out of seven) of them who knew some English and she told me a few stories about her drunken friends who were from outside of the city.  


After they left, the gentleman who saved me from the Russians offered to buy me some coffee at Burger King, so, since it was much warmer in the restaurant, I agreed.  After our coffee, he asked me to wake him up after an hour.  I said “sure” since I wanted to finish my book anyway.  After he awoke, he got on his train to Frankfurt and asked me to e-mail him when I made it to my destination.  


I went back to Burger King to warm-up yet again and I met some guys who were visiting München from Mannheim.  Two of them were extremely drunk but still fairly charming and the other two were just charming without being any more than swimmy-eyed.  We talked for about 2 hours and three of them decided to head back to their hostel to get some sleep since they were leaving in the morning.  One of the swimmy-eyed charming fellows decided that I shouldn’t be in the station alone and said that he’d stay with me until Matt and Pat arrived.  He and I talked about various things and I must say that he was quite adorable.  He was also very conscious about his conjugation of English verbs - which was even more adorable.  We talked for about three hours and then Pat arrived to pick me up.  


We drove on the Autobahn back to Oberammergau and then took off to go skiing in the Alps.  I’m rubbish at skiing, and we’ll leave it at that.  


I’m in love with Europe so far.  It’s absolutely beautiful - a little cold for my liking, but beautiful.  We’re going to Italy later this week and possibly Austria and who knows where else.  I wish this part didn’t have to end.  I’m really not looking forward to getting stuck in Paris on my way back to London, though.  It’s far less romantic when you’re freezing and wanting to be elsewhere.  

12.17.2007

Up Up and Away

I’m sitting in the Chicago O’Hare International Airport and I must say that I have, aside from a few Birbiglia jokes floating about my head, a creepy feeling that I’m in a taping of the next Home Alone film. The concourses are laden with holiday decor and people are running (for no particular reason.. all of the flights are delayed as usual) through the terminals as the mix of Christmas music and CNN news commentary create the backgrounding white noise. The sun is sinking, although not fast enough, and the glare on the linoleum-tile floor is enough to invoke a headache or seizure to those who are prone.

My flight into Chicago seemed much different than all those I have taken before - possibly because I’ve never been able to enjoy a window seat on a delayed 1:20 pm flight (thanks to the guy who is apparently unfamiliar with the alphabet) or because I’m able to call thoughts to mind this time around contrary to those I have always experienced in my mid-air travels. Either way, the sepia glow of the setting sun supplementary to a cruising altitude of 33,000 feet brought the well-known feeling of watching cities suddenly become faceless and unimportant and clouds become cotton-balls suspended in the sky which was refreshing to discern.

My dad said goodbye to me via a message from the pilots as we left the SGF airspace which made me burst into silent tears upon reflection of the fight we had this morning. The flight crew assumed that we got off the ground 15 minutes early because of my dad working in the tower, so the flight attendant came over to talk to me, acting as though she was completely enthralled with anything that I would have said if I wouldn’t have been choking on air. I’m slightly glad that I was unable to speak, though, because she seemed like one of those ridiculously cheery people for a delayed flight who would probably creep me out in less than 17 seconds.

The probability of my leaving Chicago O’Hare sometime in the next century is looking increasingly dim as every time I look up at the monitor another 15 minutes seems to get tacked onto our delay. It’d be fine if I could find the panini place that was so popular amongst travelers on my last flight form O’Hare to Newark, but I have a feeling the nearest prospect could be located somewhere in the eastern hemisphere.. at least an hour walk from anywhere near where I need to be. I’m thinking about caving and getting some uber-greasy Chinese that bears a striking resemblance to plastic if I don’t see anyone with whom I can inquire about my sandwich.

One of the American Airlines people at the desk decided to brighten our day earlier by singing “Have Yourself a Merry Little Christmas” over the intercom, which was pleasant and unexpected - a much appreciated combination. The children sitting around the gates all whispered in hushed voices with adorable smiles on their faces and families and couples who were traveling together leaned a little closer to one another for the two minute song. Even the woman with the saddest eyes I have ever seen who was sitting beside me carrying a dozen and a half pink roses seemed to put he tissue down and grin for awhile.

Well, they claim that we’re preparing to board.... we’ll see how this goes.